Columbia has a What-A-Burger, but not a Whataburger. Here’s the difference

When a Greenville real estate company let it be known that the Texas-based hamburger chain Whataburger was looking for its first South Carolina location, some folks in the Midlands rose up in alarm and sputtered, whoa, we’ve already got one of those.

True, true.

But it’s What-A-Burger and not affiliated with the Whataburger chain that prides itself on Texas-sized burgers, so big you need two hands to eat them.

The West Columbia restaurant has been around about as long as that other one, which started as a hamburger stand in 1950 in Corpus Christi, Texas, and now has 800 restaurants and 43,000 employees

The local restaurant, with the one location on Meeting Street in West Columbia, once was a small wooden building close to the road. It was started by Hazel Setzler, an aunt of long-time state Sen. Nikki Setzler, whose family owned Ed’s Drive-in just down the street.

The senator says competition was not on the menu. They operated independently and collegially, Setzler said, as generations of customers sought out hand-dipped corn dogs and in the early years, drank glass-bottle Cokes from a thin red straw.

Ed’s rocked along until 1994, after Setzler’s grandfather and then father died, and the family decided to close. On the last day, they had to stop people from joining the line outside at midnight, Nikki Setzler said.

But What-A-Burger continued on.

Robby Setzler, Hazel’s son, could not be reached for comment about the family’s long-time business. His son, also Robby, Blythewood High’s soccer coach, said he doesn’t remember much about the restaurant — he was a toddler when they sold it.

His abiding memories were eating hot dogs off the stick that were intended for corn dogs and drinking Pepsi — glass bottles, of course.

Several owners followed. Now the restaurant is owned by Jeannie Watts and managed by Jessica Butler, who says the small building was replaced by the current building in the early 1990s.

She said there are many differences between her store and the chain.

“We don’t do avocado burgers and they still don’t sell breakfast,” she said.

For as long as anyone can remember, the Bible verse Matthew 18:20 has adorned one wall. “For where two or three gather in my name, there am I with them.”

Christian music is piped in and chili is made fresh daily. Corn dogs with the special recipe are hand dipped still.

Darrell Baldwin, who was having lunch there recently, described himself as being “born and raised on What-A-Burger.”

He’s eaten at the chain and noted they are entirely different, “but still good.”

Rosalind Hearon, 81, who was also having lunch, remembered as a child watching through the window as their food was made and then eating in the car. She said she still comes for the company and friendship of the staff.

On the City of West Columbia Facebook page, people recalled their years eating at What-A-Burger. They praised the chicken livers and ordered a hot dog “all the way from Wilma.” It was the first job for a lot of people.

One woman offered that the Bebop milkshakes were better at Ed’s. Children rode their bikes there and at least one couple stopped on their way to have their first baby so the husband could have something to eat. There was no food at Baptist Hospital back then.

Butler said there are many, many regulars. If she doesn’t know their name, she does know what they like to eat.

And for any folks who go to Augusta, there is another What-A-Burger. Not the chain. Not associated with the Columbia restaurant.

The chain is looking to expand into the Atlanta area, just as they are doing in Greenville, where Collett Greenville announced on Instagram the chain is looking for a 1- to 1.5-acre site.

West Columbia’s What-A-Burger is not worried.

Staff Photographer Tracy Glantz contributed to this report.

This story was originally published March 17, 2022 at 9:29 AM.