Reporter Chris Trainor’s Essentials Midlands Restaurant Guide has been updated for 2024.
Joshua Boucher
Joshua Boucher, Hrisanthi Pickett
Some places just feel like home. And home, in my opinion, is essential.
The restaurants of the Midlands continue to mostly be havens where we can leave the troubles of the day at the door and share a table with friends or loved ones. Where we can spark a conversation at a bar with a coworker or a stranger. A plate of nachos, as it turns out, is the universal language.
The region’s restaurants are places where we can celebrate birthdays or noisily toast a friend’s recent engagement or post up in a corner with just our thoughts, some cold libations and a killer pad Thai.
And so, with the area’s divergent restaurant offerings in mind, I wanted to give you a look at my go-to places in Columbia, Lexington and beyond. You will find, of course, that this isn’t an exhaustive, comprehensive list of every restaurant in the Midlands. Nor, certainly, is it necessarily a grouping of what I believe to be the “best” spots in the area.
It is, quite simply, a gathering of my favorite restaurants here. My essentials, if you will. On this list you will find white tablecloth places, greasy burger joints, Black-owned barbecue spots, hole-in-the wall Mexican establishments and pizzerias that sling a mean pie. It’s mostly a guide filled with one-off local businesses, though there are few small chains mixed in.
We initially published this list in late 2022 and felt now was the time to give it an update. Gone from the list are a few places that have, sadly, closed. (We still miss you, The Whig.) Meanwhile, you’ll also find some new entries in the mix. (Welcome to the party, City Limits Barbeque.)
It is my hope that there are a few places in this guide that, though they might be classics to longtime residents, might new to you, and that you’ll give them a try. Make this a bucket list, if you will. A really tasty bucket, filled with queso or maybe mustard-based barbecue sauce.
This Cayce haunt, long a favorite of Midlands residents, was immortalized by ESPN writer Wright Thompson in his expansive essay “Pulled Pork and Pigskin: A Love Letter to Southern Football.” It’s where Thompson makes reference to the Kingsman’s pimento cheeseburgers, noting the restaurant is famous for “these gobs of cholesterol-laden goodness.” Thompson also deems the pimento burgers “messier than a small-town divorce.” The pimento cheeseburgers at The Kingsman are indeed good, but they are only part of the show. The Cayce spot also is known for its wings, steaks and even its lasagna special. Their meals are fit for a king, or a queen.
Location: 936 Axtell Drive, Cayce. 803-796-8622
The steak and shrimp combo at the Rusty Anchor in Chapin. The restaurant won The State’s 2022 Lake Murray Restaurant Poll. Photo by Chris Trainor
I’ve never really been a “lake person,” even though Lake Murray plays a major role in the way of life in the Midlands. But if you are looking for a spot that mixes good food, a stellar atmosphere and great views of Lake Murray, Rusty Anchor fits the bill for lake experts and neophytes alike. Located in Chapin, the Rusty Anchor features a solid menu of steaks, sandwiches, seafood and more. The fried shrimp are especially tasty, and the nautical-themed dining room is a cozy place to spend a weekend evening with friends or family. Catfish Johnny’s, the associated restaurant right next door, often has live music pumping on the deck.
Location: 1925 Johnson Marina Road, Chapin. 803-749-1555
Trenholm Plaza has continued to be perhaps the trendiest spot in Forest Acres for dining, shopping and more, and Tazza Kitchen is one of the key places in the plaza for a casual-yet-stylish dinner. They’ve got excellent wood-fired pizzas, tasty pork carnitas tacos and a decadent flourless chocolate cake for dessert. But my go-to is the TK Nachos, which come with housemade queso, avocado tomatillo salsa, pico de gallo, black beans and cilantro. I add braised beef short rib shavings to the mix, to quench my carnivorous side.
Maybe the sneakiest great pizza in Columbia lives here. Now, to be clear, there are a number of really well done items on Thirsty Fellow’s menu, from the Philly cheesesteak with sweet potato fries to the Ray Carci Meatball Hoagie to burgers and beyond. But the stone-fired pizza is what keeps many coming back. Thirsty (my friends and I just call it “Thirsty”) is an especially well-located spot for USC hoops fans: It’s literally steps from the Gamecocks’ Colonial Life Arena.
Have you ever had a restaurant or bar that just makes you feel completely at ease? A place where you feel like you could just meld with the booth and stay there forever, with a cold one and a plate of shrimp on the table in front of you? For me, that’s Vella’s in Cayce, a spot that has long been a mainstay for our family before or after USC basketball games. The steaks, wings and burgers are all praise-worthy, but you can also grab a fried bologna sandwich with some raw fries if you are feeling especially nostalgic.
Restaurateur Kristian Niemi is a long-standing player in the Midlands dining scene, with spots such as Main Street’s Bourbon and West Columbia’s Black Rooster highlighting the area’s offerings. In 2023 he debuted The Dragon Room on Gervais Street, an izakaya that offers flavors from across Asia. The menu includes everything from Taiwanese fried chicken steamed buns to Sichuan hot chicken sandwiches to ramen dishes to lobster rangoon dip and beyond. I’m personally fond of the din tai fung, which is a Taiwanese fried rice. They are open late, too, including until 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.
The O’Hara’s brand is strong on Lexington’s vibrant, resurgent Main Street. There is, of course, the O’Hara’s Public House at 131 East Main St, an Irish pub with a deep beer roster and a menu with favorites such as fish and chips. But a couple doors down at 121 East Main St., there’s O’Hara’s Bakery Cafe, a spot focusing on breakfast and lunch, as well as baked goods and desserts. It’s open late on weekends, where it has become a go-to spot for people looking to finish off the night with dessert and live music. This spot is the boss of the baked goods game in downtown Lexington.
Location: 121 East Main St., Lexington. 803-356-1402
Sometimes a bar and restaurant is just a perfect fit for its neighborhood. That is certainly the case with The Hoot and the Rosewood neighborhood. Opened in 2023 by a handful of Columbia service industry veterans — including Chelsea Ford, Jessica Ochoa, and former The Whig co-owner Will Green — The Hoot has quickly distinguished itself as a cozy watering hole with a robust and creative cocktail and beer menu, as well as a food menu highlighted by vegan twists on bar food classics. One of my faves is the Veg-Fil-A sandwich, which The Hoot bills as a “fried chikn-style sandwich with garlic mayo, pickles, lettuce and tomato.” More than anything, The Hoot is just a comfortable place to be.
OK, I’ll admit it: WECO isn’t a “restaurant” in the traditional sense. It doesn’t serve its own in-house food menu, though it does have a steady roster of food trucks that roll onto the property almost daily. But the biergarten has become a watershed hangout spot in West Columbia, with one of the best beer menus in the Midlands. Some folks call West Columbia the “Best Columbia.” I’m not willing to give it that crown yet, but places like WECO certainly lend credence to the idea.
Location: 626 W. Meeting St., West Columbia. 803-851-1279
Way down on Garners Ferry Road, tucked into an unassuming shopping center, you’ll find this gem of a restaurant that perfectly sums up all that is right with South Carolina’s barbecue traditions. Big T’s, which was selected as one of the top barbecue joints in the Midlands in a February 2022 readers’ poll by The State, has been delighting diners for years with its barbecue sandwiches, ribs, hash and rice, cheeseburgers, fish, chicken and more. For me, it’s the hash and rice that sets the tone for everything Big T’s does. It has the perfect consistency and flavor and works as a complement to a barbecue dinner, or as a delicacy all its own.
For years, City Limits operated as a food truck, and built something of a cult following across the Midlands area. But in 2023, owner Robbie Robinson finally found a brick-and-mortar home for the business, on Methodist Park Road in West Columbia. And from there, City Limits has taken off like a rocket. (Robinson was even a finalist for a coveted James Beard Foundation Award earlier this year.) There is much to love about City Limits, which offers Texas-style brisket, Carolina-style pork barbecue and a host of succulent sides. The apple cobbler will make you actually levitate off the ground.
Location: 1119 Methodist Park Road, West Columbia. 803-260-7469
Since opening in 2020, this spot on Hampton Street has become a favorite for pulled pork, ribs, pulled chicken and more. While the food is absolutely savory — don’t even get me started on the mac and cheese and the hash and rice — the decor inside the restaurant is almost worth the trip alone. Late activist, author and Columbia stalwart Kevin Gray founded Railroad BBQ and packed the dining space with photos, political artifacts, posters, stickers and more that tell a story of Columbia and South Carolina. It is a treasure. Sadly, Gray died in 2023 at the age of 65. But the restaurant, and his powerful legacy, lives on.
They aren’t in a gas station anymore. Roy’s, which rose to acclaim several years ago as a popular spot for barbecue and more in an Exxon gas station on Main Street in Lexington, has since moved into its own spot on Woodrow Street in Irmo. Owner Chris Williams, a former South Carolina Chef Ambassador, has honed a menu that includes everything from pulled pork to Korean cheesesteaks to burgers and beyond. The Roy’s Nachos — house-fried and seasoned tortilla chips topped with barbecue sauce, housemade queso blanco and a choice of pulled pork or blackened chicken — are a particular treat.
Location: 7971 N. Woodrow St., Irmo. 803-359-0994
People from all over South Carolina and neighboring states come to Shealy’s in Batesburg-Leesville. Tim Dominick tdominick@thestate.com
Sometimes you have to venture out a bit to experience something special. Such is the case with Shealy’s Bar-B-Que, the more than 50-year-old barbecue joint that has long been a Midlands favorite. Located about 35 miles west of downtown Columbia, in Batesburg-Leesville, Shealy’s is known for its pulled pork and mustard-based barbecue sauce, which is a part of its extensive buffet that also features veggies, fried chicken, hash and much more. The banana pudding here borders on sinful. I may or may not have participated in an unofficial banana pudding eating contest at Shealy’s when I was in high school.
Location: 340 East Columbia Ave., Batesburg-Leesville. 803-532-8135
The truth will set you free. Or at least set you up with some mighty fine hash and rice. For more than a decade, the smoke has risen from the grills of True BBQ on D Avenue in the Triangle City section of West Columbia. I discovered the place years ago when I was working for the Free Times alt-weekly newspaper, and we’d go over there for Friday lunches that would send us off into the weekend on a barbecue high. My favorite is a Big Z pulled pork sandwich with Pretty Lady sauce and mac and cheese. But it’s impossible to turn down the hash and rice, which is perhaps the joint’s marquee dish.
Location: 1237 D Ave., West Columbia. 803-791-9950
Hunter-Gatherer sort of runs the playbook of divergent dining experiences in Columbia. On one hand, there’s the original location that has been around for more than a quarter-century at 900 Main St. The brewery and restaurant is the definition of cozy and is one of Columbia’s best date night spots. (I’ve often called a Hobbit Hole, because of the low-lit, natural feel of the place in the evenings.) And then, across town at 1402 Jim Hamilton Blvd., there’s the Hunter-Gatherer Hangar in the open, airy, refurbished Curtiss-Wright Hangar. It’s become one of Columbia’s key hangout spots since it opened in 2018. The beer is plentiful at both locations, and each has a solid food menu. I rock with the baked mac and cheese at the Main Street location and the meat lovers pizza at the Hangar.
Locations on Main Street and in Rosewood in Columbia.
This restaurant and bar does a lot more than breakfast and brunch. But let’s be real with each other, shall we? The breakfast and brunch are still the show at Cafe Strudel. This is readily evident when you get a look at the crowds there on weekend mornings. Many people — and I’ll raise my hand on this one — are fans of the Hangover Hashbrowns, which come adorned with cheese, banana peppers, onions, tomatoes and sour cream. But I want to take a moment to pay homage to the prodigious, flavorful cinnamon pancakes, which you can get with eggs and turkey bacon. It is, frankly, the breakfast of legends.
Locations in West Columbia and Lexington.
Burgers
Mack’s Cash Grocery serves more than 200 hot dogs a day. Customers to the restaurant recently voted Mack’s hot dogs as the best hot dogs in the city in The State’s 2022 Hot Dog Bracket. Tracy Glantz tglantz@thestate.com
Some say there is no such thing as love at first sight. That’s a lie. I fell in love with Mack’s Cash Grocery, the decades-old, charmingly shabby little restaurant across from Columbia’s main fire station, the moment I walked in. With its wood-paneled walls, framed photos of long-retired NASCAR drivers, Gamecocks propaganda, ancient booths and tables and, of course, an unending line of burgers sizzling on a flat-top grill, Mack’s immediately called to mind the Southern diners and greasy spoons of my youth. It’s a small-town place in the capital city. I think most people come to Mack’s for the simple charms of its burgers, or maybe the breakfast sandwiches. But don’t sleep on their hot dogs. The State’s readers voted them the best hot dogs in the Midlands in a 2022 poll, and there’s a reason for that.
True story: In the early summer of 2022, I spent a week overseas, visiting a number of places in southern Italy. It was a great trip, with amazing food, architecture and discoveries along the way. However, after being gone for a week, when we touched back down at the Columbia Metropolitan Airport, I went directly to my car, drove straight to the nearest Rush’s, and destroyed a double chili cheeseburger. Italy might have some of the world’s foremost art and storied kitchens, but they ain’t got a Rush’s double chili cheeseburger. Some things are beyond legendary.
The word “iconic” gets thrown around a little too liberally these days, but that’s not the case when it comes to the cone. And by “the cone” I’m referring, of course, to the giant, landmark, chocolate-dipped ice cream cone that is perched above the sign at Zesto in West Columbia, the one that has served as a beacon to residents and travelers for more than seven decades. And the actual chocolate-dipped cones that are served inside the restaurant live up to the legend. They’re a perfect cool-off during the famously hot Midlands summers. They also specialize in burgers (Zesto Burger, for the win), chicken, hot dogs and more.
Location: 504 12th St., West Columbia. 803-794-4652
Bernie’s on Bluff Road has been slinging chicken and more for four decades, but to me it kind of feels like it’s been there since the beginning of time. The old restaurant near Williams-Brice Stadium is especially popular at lunchtime, when working Columbians — rail workers, factory employees, deputies, etc. — turn up in droves for a three-piece special with an extra sweet iced tea. You know it’s been a particularly busy lunch rush when the customers’ numbered tickets are scattered across the counter and floor, kind of like the New York Stock Exchange. Bernie’s sells breakfast items, burgers and other sandwiches, but the show is, of course, the spot’s “broasted” chicken. Hot, golden, crispy and juicy, it’s the kind of treat that leaves you hoping that Bernie’s will still be rocking on Bluff for another 40 years.
Location: 1311 Bluff Road, Columbia. 803-256-2888
A chicken filet sandwich and fries at Drake’s Duck-In. Chris Trainor ctrainor@thestate.com
Everyone needs a glow-up at some point. Even fried chicken joints. For decades, Drake’s Duck-In has been a mainstay of the dining scene on Main Street in downtown Columbia, where it serves up chicken, burgers, breakfast, salads and more. The Main Street location was closed for most of 2023 as it underwent a complete remodeling and some updates to the menu. The new look fits in nicely with the revitalized vibes downtown, and the menu still features some of its bedrock items, including the chicken filet sandwich that famously includes two plump, juicy chicken strips.
Columbia is a city of institutions. The University of South Carolina. The seat of state government. The Army’s Fort Jackson. And when it comes to country cooking, there’s another longstanding institution: Lizard’s Thicket. The chain — there are locations across the Midlands — has been around for nearly 50 years, and has long been a staple for fans of the classic Southern “meat and three” lunch or dinner. Everyone has their favorite combo, and here’s mine: I go with the chicken fried steak, with macaroni and cheese, fried okra and black-eyed peas, with an iced tea, half sweet, half unsweet. (Sometimes I get the tea all the way sweet, and then I retreat into a diabetic coma.) And, of course, I get a bread basket with a mix of rolls and cornbread. I think there is a state law on the books that says, “if you are eating chicken fried steak at Lizard’s Thicket, you must have at least one piece of cornbread to go with it.” I don’t make the laws, I just follow them.
“Hello, my friend.” For generations, that was the greeting late restaurant owner Andy Shlon offered visitors who trekked up or down the hill to 2005 Greene St. to Andy’s Deli. While Shlon passed in 2021 at the age of 79, his restaurant in Five Points lives on, with everyone from USC students to neighborhood residents streaming in for sandwiches, salads and more. The restaurant’s menu of Gamecock Specials are the main show, with the Andy’s Special being at the top of my list. It has roast beef and turkey sandwiched between layers of melted Swiss cheese and sprinkled with bacon bits and comes with, of course, special sauce on the side.
Eventually we all end up at Beezer’s. Located directly across Sumter Street from the University of South Carolina’s historic Horseshoe, the sandwich shop is known for its late-night hours — it’s open until midnight several nights each week — and variety of sandwiches. I’ve always been a fan of the Stormin’ Norman, which comes with roast beef, provolone cheese, lettuce, tomatoes and mayo. The sandwiches at Beezer’s are like flavor missiles and come through in the clutch during a tight-on-time lunch break downtown or after a long, late night of partying.
Location: 919 Sumter St., Columbia. 803-771-7771
The popular STP Dipper from Groucho’s Deli features turkey, roast beef, Swiss cheese and bacon bits. It is a top selling sandwich at Groucho’s. Tracy Glantz tglantz@thestate.com
I mean, of course Groucho’s makes the list. While it has become a small franchise that has expanded across the Midlands and to other parts of the region, Groucho’s has been a Columbia staple for more than 80 years. You can find a Groucho’s fairly close by from just about any pocket of the Columbia area, but, I have to say, the old shop on Harden Street in Five Points is where you can find the most authentic experience. It’s where college kids come to nurse hangovers, business people come for a quick and hearty lunch, and where moms and dads pop in on weekends to remember their USC days. Get an STP Dipper and thank me later. And for the love of all things holy, don’t forget the Formula 45 sauce.
One of the best lunches in Columbia can regularly be found in this charming cafe along tree-lined Richland Street. Restaurateur Jessica Shillato, who was a 2023 semifinalist for a James Beard Foundation Award, offers a host of delights at Spotted Salamander, including chicken baguettes, banh mi sandwiches, amazing burgers on Fridays and a rotating menu of chicken sandwiches on Fried Chicken Tuesdays. They also have deviled eggs for an appetizer, if you are feeling especially Southern.
Location: 1531 Richland St., Columbia. 803-556-2197
This spot feels like a secret that’s not so secret anymore. It’s located inside the historic Arcade Mall on Main Street north of the State House, a space that once seemed to be fading away but has reemerged in recent years with a round of new shops and some physical renovations. All the while, Swanson’s has been plugging away at lunchtime Mondays through Fridays, offering some of the best sandwiches and quickest service in Columbia. I’m a Bob Special guy. That one comes with roast beef, turkey, melted swiss and bacon bits on a toasted hoagie with a side of homemade 1000 Island dressing. Yes, it’s Swanson’s version of the “dipper” style sandwich that is wildly popular in Columbia, and Swanson’s edition stands eye-to-eye with the dipper big boys such as Groucho’s and Andy’s Deli.
Every time I talk about DeLucca’s, other people who have had the pleasure of eating there tell me to stop talking about it. They want this little Italian spot in an unassuming shopping center in West Columbia to stay their own little secret. But, I can’t help it. I have to sing the praises of this small culinary corner of the Midlands dining scene. Many folks talk about the pasta, including their prodigious (and delicious) house lasagna. But, for me, the leader of the pack on DeLucca’s menu is the calzone. It’s the best in the Columbia area, with its expertly baked dough simply stuffed with cheese and toppings of your choice. If George Costanza had gotten these calzones for Mr. Steinbrenner, he’d probably have become president of the Yankees. (Sorry for the deep cut “Seinfeld” reference.)
Location: 1720 Sunset Blvd., West Columbia. 803-926-5255
A pesto and rope sausage pasta dish at Villa Tronco in downtown Columbia on Thursday, December 22, 2022. Joshua Boucher jboucher@thestate.com
Kindness is king. It’s what I think of when Villa Tronco comes to mind. During the first holiday season I lived in the Columbia area, a decade ago, my family and I turned up at Villa Tronco in downtown Columbia on New Year’s Eve…without a reservation. Despite this faux pas, co-owner Joe Roche took charge and made room for us at a little hideaway table in the front of the restaurant. It’s those little things that have helped keep the restaurant — which claims to be the oldest in South Carolina — in business across the decades. The fact that it has a delicious Italian menu full of traditional favorites, along with an exhaustive wine list, also helps quite a bit. Try the homemade cheese ravioli, please.
Something delicious awaits beyond the waterfall. That’s the feeling I get each time I walk into Ganbei Japanese Restaurant and Bar in Lexington. The spot — which has a prominent waterfall decorative feature that greets customers as they enter near the bar — has long been a favorite for those looking for sushi, hibachi dishes, wok-fried offerings and much more. Ganbei is what we call a Friday-night restaurant in our house, the kind of place we like to go after a long week of work and school. A treat to get the weekend started. I’m a huge fan of Ganbei’s kung pao chicken, which is flash-fried and cooked with Thai chili peppers, peanuts and other seasonings. A Friday night classic.
So, adding Lexington’s Konnichiwa to this guide calls to mind, at least for me, the scene in the 2000 film “High Fidelity,” where Rob, Barry and the gang in the record shop are debating their top five side one, track one songs. At one point Barry, played expertly by Jack Black, needles John Cusack’s Rob for selecting a song by Massive Attack. “Ah, kind of a new record,” Barry says. “Very nice, Rob. A sly declaration of new classic status slipped into a list of old safe ones.” And that might be how some feel about Konnichiwa, which is a relatively new player on the scene, nabbing a spot in this guide. But this Japanese restaurant earns it with a solid menu of sushi, bento boxes and hibachi offerings. My go-to is the Bang Bang Chicken Bowl, which is bursting with flavor and sweet-and-spicy flair. It’s a worthy option for takeout or enjoying in the restaurant’s comfortable, well-appointed dining room.
I try to make my daughter try new things, especially when it comes to food. Alas, she’s a creature of habit. From the perspective of a parent, that can wear a bit thin. (If she wants Moe’s one more time, I may ship her off to a private school somewhere.) But in other instances, her devotion to a small handful of restaurants is welcome. Such is the case with Miyabi Jr., the counter-service Japanese hibachi and teriyaki joint just off Sunset Boulevard in Lexington. It does a brisk takeout business but also a steady dine-in business, and we’re there at least once per week. The chicken, steak and shrimp are always expertly cooked — perhaps the most underrated steak in the Midlands — and they also offer a tasty selection of sushi. Any day that ends with a California roll is a good one. (I may get a tattoo that says that.)
I’ll be real with you: This Korean spot is my favorite restaurant in Columbia. The one our family goes to for special occasions. The one I recommend to out-of-towners. Located in the Vista, 929 Kitchen has a menu stocked with flavorful, authentic dishes. My go-to is the japchae with chicken, which includes wok-fried, clear sweet potato noodles; red peppers; green bell peppers; onions; scallions; and carrots. I order it as spicy as they can make it. This spot was completely remodeled in early 2024 and offers a comfortable, perfectly decorated dining room and bar.
Location: 929 Gervais St., Columbia. 803-764-3825
Mexican
Barbacoa at Real Mexico Contributed Photo Contributed Photo
When you drive up near Real Mexico on Bush River Road, it doesn’t take long to realize something special is happening. That’s because the parking lot is typically full, and cars are often forced to, uh, get creative on where they can park. Their creativity is rewarded, however, with what is, for my money, the best Mexican spot in Columbia. The California burrito — carne asada steak, avocado slices, pico de gallo, rice and beans, with the green salsa — is my jam, but the menu is absolutely stacked. The tortas — I see you, Tex Mex Torta — are part of what makes the restaurant special.
Location: 2421 Bush River Road, Columbia. 803-750-8990
This one is personal. Well, this whole restaurant guide is personal, but this entry particularly so. Back in 2020, during the darkest days of the COVID-19 pandemic, when schools were closed and indoor dining was shuttered and many people were sheltering at home with no vaccines in sight, our family started a little tradition: Wednesday Family Movie Night. We’d call in takeout from San Jose Express on Highway 378 in Lexington (one of the local chain’s “small restaurant” concepts) and go pick it up. Then we’d watch an old movie — “Tremors,” “Matinee,” “The Rocketeer,” etc. — while we ate tacos and cheesesteak burritos and chips with queso. And, just for a little while, we’d stave off the fear and uncertainty of the pandemic, just our little family together, with our classic movies and food from San Jose Express. They helped us make it through, truly. Viva México.
Pound-for-pound, Dano’s serves some of the best pizza in the capital city. Located in one of Columbia’s most vibrant neighborhoods — Rosewood, stand up! — Dano’s has been slinging New York-style pies for two decades. It’s a classic “pizza and a pitcher of beer” type spot, where you can get your fix by the slice or via a whole pie. While I realize it’s a deviation from a classic offering, I’m partial to the barbecue chicken pizza, which blends breaded chicken with barbecue sauce and gooey, melting mozzarella cheese. Don’t sleep on the calzones, either. The Garnet and Black calzone is a favorite and comes loaded with pepperoni, black olives, onions, mozzarella and ricotta.
Restaurateurs Sarah Simmons and Aaron Hoskins, of City Grit Hospitality Group, have made their mark on Columbia with several notable eateries, including the venerable smallSUGAR bakery and the City Grit restaurant and culinary store on Gervais Street. And then there is Il Focolare, the Cottontown pizzeria that slings some of the best pies in the capital city from a cozy storefront on Sumter Street. Il Focolare cooks its pizzas in a wood-fired oven with a host of fresh ingredients. My jam is the chopped pepperoni & basil pizza, which offers a flavorful take on a classic.
They call Village Idiot co-owner Brian Glynn “The Godfather.” And what an appropriate moniker it is, because he is the boss of Columbia pizza. For three decades, Village Idiot and its New York-style pizza have been the unofficial comfort food of the capital city. It’s helped fuel booze-filled nights out in Five Points. It’s fed hungry families on nights Dad or Mom just didn’t feel like cooking. It’s been at the center of celebrations when the Gamecocks won a big game, and helped ease frustrations after a bad loss. Village Idiot is an intrinsic piece of Columbia, as much a part of the city’s landscape as the Congaree River or the steep hills that lead down from USC’s campus.
It’s hard to think of a less likely location for an authentic British pub than in a strip mall in the Harbison area. But, indeed, the British Bulldog lives. Those who know me are well aware of my love (er, quasi obsession) with movies, and one of my go-to theaters is the Columbiana Grande on Bower Parkway. And, for me, it’s not movie night without a trip to the neighboring British Bulldog before or after the show. It has a diverse roster of beers on tap, there’s usually always a soccer game (or American football, too) on the TVs, and the menu is dotted with things like fish and chips, an English breakfast, a beef and cheddar pasty (a baked puff pastry filled with beef, cheddar and veggies), burgers and much more. God Save the King.
Lexington’s Main Street has evolved into a perhaps surprisingly solid culinary corridor over the last several years. And at the center of that push has been Keg Cowboy, the unpretentious bar and restaurant that keeps the beer cold ice and the ovens pumping out creative delicacies. Owner Brian Nelson prides himself on the Keg’s beer program — “No crap on tap” is their slogan — and welcoming vibe. The menu includes pizzas and pretzels (the grain mustard with the pretzels is next level), and a host of sandwiches, including, occasionally, the beef-on-weck, a nod to Nelson’s upstate New York roots. Their jukebox also rules all.
Location: 108 East Main St., Lexington. 803-957-2337
In recent years, Main Street in Lexington has seen something of a renaissance, with bars, restaurants and shops now lining the street in the center of town, and a bustling amphitheater located just off the main drag. And the Old Mill Brewpub is sort of the OG of that renaissance, one of the places that led the way. The pub boasts a strong selection of craft beers from across the South and the U.S. And don’t sleep on its vast food menu, which boasts fish and chips, pulled pork, sandwiches and more. To the chagrin of my cardiologist, my go-to is the Mac Attack Burger, where a prodigious patty comes topped with pepper jack mac and cheese, bacon and a special “slam sauce.”
Location: 711 East Main St., Lexington. 803-785-2337
This one is a Vista classic. Located in a former train depot on Lincoln Street near Gervais Street, the Blue Marlin brings a Lowcountry culinary flair to downtown Columbia. And what you’ve likely heard is, indeed, true: The Blue Marlin’s signature dish — shrimp and grits — is the marquee offering. Made with Adluh grits and sauteed shrimp, andouille sausage and tasso gravy, it is a textbook rendition of a South Carolina favorite. The Vista eatery has a host of other seafood offerings, as well as steaks and other delicacies. Give the New Orleans seafood gumbo — shrimp, crawfish, andouille sausages and okra — a try.
Location: 1200 Lincoln St., Columbia. 803-799-3838
Soul Food
A plate of chicken and waffles is photographed at Kiki’s Chicken and Waffles in Columbia on Friday, March 29, 2024. Photo by Sam Wolfe Special To The State
Kiki’s has a slogan that suggests its soul food is “just like Mama made it — except better.” With all due respect to Mama, it isn’t really even that close. Chef and co-owner Kiki Cyrus’ location on Parklane Road has been a favorite stop for high-profile politicians visiting Columbia, but the food here soars beyond the bounds of politics or photo ops. The chicken and waffles are over-the-moon good (duh), but the menu is loaded with soul food classics such as fish and grits, smothered pork chops, fried okra and more. The restaurant took a step up in acclaim in 2024, as Kiki and husband Tyrone Cyrus were semifinalists for Best Chef - Southeast honors at the James Beard Foundation Awards.
Have you ever had a restaurant that you loved so much, and that serves food so saporous, that when you have taken the last bite of your meal, you are actually sad that it’s all gone? That’s Duke’s Pad Thai for me. The street food and noodle bar tucked into a small shop in Cayce serves some of the Midlands’ most flavorful dishes, the kind that delight the palate and open the sinuses all at once. The pad Thai, obviously, is a highlight of the menu, but I’m especially a fan of the sweet and spicy ramen. There is a particularly communal feel to the dining space at Duke’s and its associated, neighboring restaurant Little Bee Bun Mee, one that lightens the soul and hints that perhaps we are all in on a little secret, together.
We all want to step it up a bit every once in a while. And in Columbia, when folks are looking for a spot to dine and drink on a particularly special night out, Motor Supply is often one of the first spots that comes to mind. The longtime Vista bistro is known for its top-notch dinner offerings made with locally sourced ingredients. Established more than 30 years ago, it was one of the trailblazing businesses that helped the Vista transform from a moribund warehouse district to the vibrant shopping and nightlife destination it has become. The menu is ever-evolving, but I’m a big fan of the bone-in pork chop with braised greens and BBQ baked red peas. It’s a thoughtful twist on a Southern classic.
This one has been a Five Points favorite for decades. It’s the solid spot for a business lunch where you can take a break in the conversation to enjoy offerings such as a pesto shrimp burger. And it has long been a go-to spot for that special occasion dinner, where items such as the bacon-wrapped filet mignon are among the highlights. Mr. Friendly’s also often features creative, flavorful specials. One such offering in early June 2024 was a Caribbean Jerk Grilled N.C. Swordfish that came with a mango salsa, coconut-curry vegetable broth, jasmine rice and spiced almond gremolata. There are flavors in Five Points
Location: 2001 Greene St., Columbia. 803-254-7828
Daniel Whalen plates a dish at Saluda’s Restaurant on Thursday, Feb. 8, 2024. Tracy Glantz tglantz@thestate.com
Five Points can be fancy, too. The more than century-old neighborhood east of the University of South Carolina is known for its college bars and funky shops, but spots like Saluda’s also give it an upscale infusion. I feel like Saluda’s is on everyone’s “special night out” short list, and there’s a reason for that. It has a white tablecloth vibe while also leaning into some accessible culinary favorites. The shrimp and grits is on point, and they have a filet mignon that will leave you talking about it for a while. At the end of the day, I’m just a simple boy from Abbeville, so I like to roll with the pasta du jour with meatballs, and even that will have your taste buds singing gospel music.
Cottontown’s finest. In recent years, this spot on Franklin Street has sort of become the fulcrum of the food and drink scene that has emerged north of Elmwood Avenue. Owner Porter Barron and his crew have crafted a space that is a paean to the cooking traditions of South Carolina, with a menu that features soul-affirming favorites such as chicken bog, wood-smoked ribs, pork belly burnt ends and much more. The bar scene is strong there, too.
Location: 1209 Franklin St., Columbia. 803-569-6144
Wine Bar
Caitlin Britt mixes a drink at the Lula Drake Wine Parlour in Columbia on Tuesday, March 26, 2024. Photo by Sam Wolfe Special To The State
Lula Drake is more than just a charming place to get a unique glass of wine and delicious cacio e pepe pasta dish. It’s also a place that has made history: In 2024 Lula Drake became the first restaurant in Columbia’s history to win a prestigious James Beard Association Award, as it received the Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program honor. Tim Gardner opened Lula Drake on Main Street in 2016, and it has been a key piece in the ongoing revitalization of the area. Gardner told The State in a 2024 story that it is his goal to serve “sustainable, organic and bio-dynamic wines, wines that are created by people who not only love wine, but that want to make sure what they are doing is good for the planet and good for people.”
Location: 1635 Main St., Columbia. 803-606-1968
This story was originally published November 3, 2022 at 12:00 PM.
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Chris Trainor is a retail reporter for The State and has been working for newspapers in South Carolina for more than 21 years, including previous stops at the (Greenwood) Index-Journal and the (Columbia) Free Times. He is the winner of a host of South Carolina Press Association awards, including honors in column writing, government beat reporting, profile writing, food writing, business beat reporting, election coverage, social media and more.
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