Meet the Midlands man who knows how to throw a party

If there is one thing I found myself surprised to be talking about with one of the Southeast’s premiere caterers – Jack Brantley of Camden – it was peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.

But that’s quintessential Mr. Jack, an 81-year-old mix of sophistication, Southern gentleman and simple ingredients.

“I can be happy with a peanut butter and jelly sandwich,” he said.

“Last night I had a PB&J. I fried up some bacon. I love bacon and I love PB&J, so I thought, to hell with it, I’ll put them together. Oh lawd, it was delicious.”

And it was a pleasure – no, I take that back, it was an experience – to spend a recent morning talking with Mr. Jack at his historic, antiqued-filled home on Broad Street, just a few blocks from the center of the horsey town due east of Columbia.

Our conversation was the a la carte kind, so let’s start with some appetizers.

Mr. Jack grew up in Ridgeland, South Carolina, on a 25,000-acre hunting preserve called Good Hope Plantation. His father, Lamar Brantley, was the plantation’s superintendent.

“The family that owned it was from New York. They and their guests would come down during hunting season. We lived there like it was our plantation. It was an unreal way to grow up. There was a big house and a cottage. My family lived in the cottage. There were big old oak trees everywhere. When the acorns fell, Daddy would pick them up and take them to the duck ponds. Growing up there was something you would dream of. Lawd, we grew up thinking that’s the way everybody lived.”

As a boy, Mr. Jack went to “little old Ridgeland schools.” When it was time for college, he wanted to go to the University of South Carolina in the capital city.

His father had other ideas.

“ ‘Son,’ my daddy said, ‘the best thing for you to do is look at USC as we go by because you’re going to Clemson.’ ”

Upon graduation, Mr. Jack said he “didn’t know what he wanted to do.”

Thus began a stint in the banking industry; a position with the state Parks, Recreation and Tourism Department. He also worked with the Jaycees, nearly becoming its national president.

“I withdrew after the 22nd ballot and the guy from Ohio won.”

In 1971, the Kershaw County Chamber of Commerce asked him to come to Camden and run its show.

“I said, ‘Lawd, I don’t know about that,’ but I went.”

And now, for the main course of this story.

It’s hard to get a precise fix on when Mr. Jack’s catering business got started, but it surely began as a two-person mission in the kitchen of his beloved home – called Aberdeen.

“At some point, somebody called and said, ‘Can you do a little party for us?’ People just knew that I liked to entertain and somewhere along the way, I’d met Nancy Blakeney. When she cooked, she didn’t measure or anything, so we just got started and we worked out of the kitchen in my house.”

“Oh my, yes, that little kitchen,” Blakeney said. She’s 77 years old. She worked with Mr. Jack for at least 35 years, and lives in Lugoff, a stone’s throw from Camden.

“My husband, Reid, helped Jack install a washer and dryer in his basement. They were in the Jaycees together. I invited Jack over for supper. He said to me, ‘You know, you don’t measure anything. You just throw it together.’ He said, ‘Let’s start a catering business.’ I said, ‘Oh, Jack, that’s a lot of work.’ We did our first party in town and it just took off. It was Jack’s demeanor, his personality, that made it a success.”

And maybe the beef tenderloin too.

“Nancy was running the kitchen,” Mr. Jack said.

“Wayne Fenters, a good friend, came up with the marinated beef and that’s when things began to pop. We didn’t advertise or anything like that. We’d go cater a party and someone would ask, ‘Where’re y’all from?’ I’d say, ‘Camden, South Carolina.’ ‘Where?’ I’d say, ‘Camden, S.C., ma’am.’ ”

Mr. Jack has since put Camden on the catering map.

Aberdeen Catery is sought after for functions both big and small throughout the Southeast. The operation has long since moved out of Mr. Jack’s kitchen and into its own digs, with six fulltime employees and a slew of college students who help at events.

The catery has served a president, governors, judges, top-tier business folk and the likes of you and me. The catery sets tables and serves food at parties, business functions, weddings and premiere sporting events, like The Camden Cup and The Masters golf tournament.

“Hootie Johnson called and asked if I would cater a Masters function. I said, ‘Lawd, yeah.’ ”

Mr. Jack caters some events in his home; he thinks nothing of taking down the bed in his bedroom to make room for dining tables.

“We go everywhere. Museums. Barns on farms. Boats in Charleston. Private homes.”

So, you get the picture: the catery goes wherever and whenever, using fine-china plates and whatever else is needed from Mr. Jack’s massive collection of heirlooms and antiques.

He pointed to a large sterling silver trophy, topped with the figure of a horse, which sits on a table in his home’s hallway.

“Originally, it was presented to the winner of a horse race in England. We do punch in it and I’ve been known to put chicken salad in it. It’s no fun if you can’t use all these beautiful things and we use them.”

Mr. Jack and his crew are game for both big and small functions.

“When David Beasley became governor of South Carolina, we were serving 3,500 people in two different places. My smallest function? Two people. Right here in my house. He and she were getting married. We don’t care if it’s two people or 2,000, it’s always fun.”

Which brings us to dessert.

Mr. Jack recently bequeathed his home – one of Camden’s most historic structures, built in the early 1800s –along with its contents, including priceless antiques and a stunning collection of porcelain, to the city of Camden.

“It’s just an awesome gift to the city,” Camden Mayor Alfred Mae Drakeford said.

“When I die,” Mr. Jack said, “I’ll go out the back door in a box and the house will be left completely as is. People will come and be able to have tours.

“I just love Camden. The people have all been wonderful to me.”

And Mr. Jack has been wonderful to them.

“People call out of the blue to visit the house and I say, ‘Lawd, yeah, come on.’… I’m just so happy to know the house is going to be taken care of. I’ve done everything I know to do so that it will be enjoyed by those who come through it.”

And as for the catering business?

When Mr. Jack makes his earthly exit, the business will be given to Brian Haff, who has worked at the catery since he was a senior in high school.

“Brian is like a son to me,” Mr. Jack said. “When he first came in here, he was just piddling. He didn’t know how to cook, but he started cooking, cleaning, whatever. It just kept going. I hope he will enjoy it as much as I have.”

Haff said Mr. Jack has been key in helping with his career.

“I was lucky enough to do a job shadow with Jack and Aberdeen Catery that has paved the way for my career. With two degrees and Jack’s mentoring, I’ve learned the catering business from the ground up over the past 23 years. Jack took me under his wing and prepared me well to take over when the time is right.”

In the meantime, Mr. Jack has no idea of retiring.

“Lawd, no, I can assure you of that. The only reason I stay home is if I don’t have a party. I don’t look at it as work. I look at it as having a party. I get up every day knowing I’m going to have a party and I’m going to have a good time too. A lot of times I don’t get to bed until 3 or 4 a.m. That doesn’t bother me. I just want to know everyone has had a good time.”

Lawd, yeah.

This story was originally published February 17, 2017 at 11:00 AM with the headline "Meet the Midlands man who knows how to throw a party."