A feast for Mardi Gras

Let the feasting begin.

Mardi Gras, known as Fat Tuesday or Shrove Tuesday, is Feb. 9. It’s a time of partying and feasting, which gives way to Lent and its time of reflection and penitence, in which the faithful give up or do without the luxuries of life – rich and fatty foods being high on the list. The fasting and penitence of the Lenten season begins Ash Wednesday.

Mardi Gras, therefore, has become synonymous with all sorts of celebrations, with the New Orleans event being the largest in the United States and most familiar.

Several Columbia chefs are putting together special foods for the occasion. Motor Supply Bistro’s Chef Wesley Fulmer will have a special Mardi Gras dinner menu Tuesday and Feb. 10 and head barman Josh Streetman will be mixing up some classic cocktails (think Ramos Gin Fizzes and Sazeracs) using ingredients inspired by New Orleans.

Fulmer has classical French training, having graduated from the Le Cordon Bleu-affiliate Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts and worked at the Michelin-starred Restaurant Christian Etienne in Avignon, Provence, France. Fulmer also was the chef tournant under Chef John Besh at Restaurant August in New Orleans. That’s where he supplemented his knowledge of classical French technique with the area’s Cajun and Creole influences.

“I think a lot of people kinda forget about New Orleans cooking and how unique it is,” Fulmer said. “We’re taking it back to the New Orleans classics with the red fish and a gumbo that’s more like a sauce than a stew. I usually take Mardi Gras off and cook a huge meal of N’Orleans BBQ shrimp and gumbo and invite the neighbors, but this year I’m taking the party to the restaurant.”

A partial listing of items on Motor Supply’s Mardi Gras menu includes:

▪  Cajun spiced pork belly salad (grilled endive and romaine lettuces, marinated cucumber, grape tomato, fried bread crumble and cane syrup vinaigrette)

▪ Louisiana-style Boudin sausage (with crispy fingerling potato and andouille salad, piquillo peppers, dijon mustard and fried sage)

▪ Duck gumbo (Ashley Farms confit leg and seared breast, Edisto farro piccolo, Cochon Butcher andouille, fried okra and classic gumbo sauce)

▪ N’Orleans-style barbecue shrimp (Congaree Milling Co. blue polenta, herb roasted cipollini onions and Cajun-spiced shrimp broth).

“Mardi gras is all about family and comfort – and how you translate those flavors into the food,” Fulmer said.

Try your hand at recreating some classic New Orleans tastes at home with these recipes:

In a large sauce pan, combine the pork butt, pork liver, water, onions, garlic, bell peppers, celery, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon cayenne and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Bring liquid to a boil then reduce to a simmer.

Simmer for 1 1/2 hours or until the pork and liver are tender. Remove from heat and drain, reserving 1 1/2 cups of the broth.

Using a meat grinder with a 1/4-inch die, grind the pork mixture with 1/2 cup parsley and 1/2 cup green onion tops.

Turn the mixture into a mixing bowl and stir in the cooked rice, remaining salt, cayenne, black pepper, parsley and green onion. Add reserved broth, 1/2 cup at a time, and mix thoroughly.

Using either a feeding tube or funnel, stuff the sausage into casings and make 3-inch links.

Bring 1 gallon of salted water to a boil. Poach the sausage for about 5 minutes, or until sausage is firm from the water and allow to cool. You can then serve them as is or choose to fry them in a skillet until browned.

Emeril Lagasse

*Variation 1: Instead of using casings, shape pork mixture into balls, lightly batter and deep-fry for Boudin balls

Variation 2: Substitute the pork with shrimp and crawfish for a seafood Boudin.

In a food processor, combine crawfish, shrimp, shallots, cream, brandy, salt, cayenne and pepper. Process until just combined. Turn mixture into a mixing bowl and stir in rice and parsley.

Using a feeding tube or funnel, stuff the seafood mix into the casings and form into 3-inch links.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water up to a boil. Add the peppercorns, onion, lemon slices and bay leaf and cook for 2 minutes. Add sausage and poach until firm to the touch and plump, about 5 minutes.

Remove sausage from water and cool.

In a large saute pan, over medium heat, melt the butter. Pan fry the sausage 3-4 minutes on each side. Remove from pan and serve with Mustard Cream Sauce.

Emeril Lagasse

1 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup chopped shallots

2 cups whipping cream

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon

Combine wine and shallots in a small heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook until reduced to 1/3 cup, about 6 minutes.

Whisk in the cream, mustard, salt and cayenne. Boil until thickened by 50 percent, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in tarragon and adjust seasoning to taste.

Emeril Lagasse

Pack an old-fashioned glass with ice.

In a second old-fashioned glass, place the sugar cube and add the bitters to the sugar cube. Crush the sugar cube. Add the whiskey (or bourbon).

Empty the ice from the first glass and pour in the Herbsaint. Swirl to coat the inside of the glass and discard remaining Herbsaint.

Empty the whiskey/bitters/sugar mixture from the second glass into the coated first glass and garnish with lemon peel.

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