What’s good here: Boeshreen

For the sweet tooth: melt-in-your-mouth baklava in almond, honey, hazelnut, and cream varieties, as well as muffins, cookies, cheesecake, and a light, flavorful tiramisu – plus much more.

There is coffee roasted in Charleston, as well as a variety of flavored syrups.

Lunch to eat in or take out includes Philly cheesesteaks, subs, gyros, falafel, salads, and a specialty fish or chicken breast sandwich. There are also chicken tenders and wings with a choice of 25 sauces.

The true culinary focus is on dinner, which manager, founder and owner Mustafa Addahoumi explains is when the most authentic, fully Mediterranean delicacies are prepared by his wife, Elham, and two other Middle Eastern-born assistants.

He insists Columbia has not tasted true couscous until enjoying it made the Boeshreen way.

There is also a Macaroni Béchamel, baked pasta and ground beef in a béchamel sauce; Macroona Embowkha, angel-hair pasta steamed over a bouillon of meat and vegetables; a Libyan Vegetable Casserole with at least six vegetables; and, Kabsa with rice, chicken vegetables, and such spices as cardamom, saffron, cinnamon, black lime, and bay leaves.

How did Boeshreen get its start?

While showing the black-and-white photograph affixed to the wall in his restaurant, Addahoumi explains that his grandfather started the business in 1925 in Benghazi, Libya, selling delectable doughnut-like treats and then running the bakery and eatery until his father took over in the 1940s.

As the third generation, Addahoumi grew and expanded the business until the 2011 civil war in his country destroyed his livelihood. He and many others moved 13 miles away from the violence to establish their homes and businesses. However, more upheaval followed, and he eventually moved his children, wife, and business to Columbia.

Boeshreen opened in November, just one month after the historic flood. Addahoumi said the water came just 10 feet from his newly renovated building.

What does the place look like?

Bright outdoor furnishings are arranged underneath the prominent signage for those who want to enjoy coffee, pastries or lunch outside.

Inside in one section of the restaurant is a relaxed coffee bar atmosphere with upholstered furnishings, and tables and chairs made from heart pine salvaged from abandoned Detroit factories.

There is a large dessert case and a walk-up order counter.

Another large eating area features the word “Welcome” in various languages on the walls and photographs of unique dishes with written descriptions.

Who eats here?

Addahoumi said many people think of Mediterranean food as only Greek-style food. However, when they learn that Boeshreen serves authentic Mediterranean food in the Libyan/Moroccan/North African style, they either want to experience the culinary difference, or they have tasted food from this region in the past and want to eat it again.

Professors from area universities, students, foreign-born residents and visitors, and adventurous foodies visit Boeshreen.

This story was originally published February 17, 2016 at 1:48 PM.