What’s good here: Publico Kitchen and Tap

The Mexican grilled corn on the cob side with a sprinkling of cotija (Mexican feta) cheese and cilantro is a culinary treat. This American/Southwestern/Mexican/Asian-inspired fusion menu provides both freshness and flavor as its focal points. For example, the crispy pork belly taco has a sweet potato spread, as well as cilantro-onion relish and salsa verde. The chili-marinated grilled shrimp combines smoky plantain puree, mango salsa, citrus slaw and cilantro chimichurri.

There are healthy and unique salads: One features coconut milk-infused quinoa with red onion, chopped kale, toasted coconut and cilantro-lime vinaigrette. Meat can be added to any of the salads.

The hand-shaped burgers are a blend of beef brisket, ground chuck and rib roast. Every day there is a taco du jour, a raman of the day and a dessert of the day. A recently featured dessert was an oatmeal cream pie cheesecake.

A massive chalkboard displays a vast selection of craft, domestic and foreign beers, and a full bar serves a variety of wine and creative mixed drinks. Publico even has saki on tap.

How did Publico get its start?

Stan Panos is one of three partners in this new Columbia venture that opened in November. Panos is the construction and ambiance guy, while Bob McCarthy is a seasoned concept-development person, and Mike Duganier is the on-site trainer and manager who in the trenches daily. “There is 75 years of experience between the three of us,” says Duganier.

Panos, a longtime design consultant for the food and beverage industry, said the concept is about bringing delicious, novel cuisine to Columbia at an affordable price so that at the end of the meal, there is only a feeling of satisfaction instead of stress over an exorbitant bill.

What does the place look like?

As much as the food is a feast for the soul, the interior design of Publico is enjoyable on the eyes. Panos says he used reclaimed wood and tin for the walls and bar. Massive glass garage doors allow plenty of light but also open to allow fresh air on pleasant days. The ceiling is stamped tin, while there are large black and white photos on one wall, and distressed, found-object-style pieces strategically placed throughout the restaurant.

Propeller-like ceiling fans and spotlights hang from the ceiling. Seating consists of wood and metal café tables and chairs and booths, and a back patio will open by spring. Current seating capacity is at 110.

“There’s such an energy in the open room,” says Panos. “That’s what we wanted.”

Who eats here?

“It’s awesome,” says Duganier. “Our clientele is from 21 to 71 years old. I’ve heard guests say this is what Five Points needed. Every age is comfortable here. We’re not just a taco house … We’re fusion cuisine, and that’s appealing.”

This story was originally published March 1, 2016 at 6:02 PM with the headline "What’s good here: Publico Kitchen and Tap."